2008 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru
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"We love 2008; it's a great vintage," Julien Brocard told me at the beginning of June. "It's a high-acid year, as high as 2007, but there's also a very good balance of sugar and acidity. We benefited from slow ripening during a cool September with a north wind." Usually a Chablis vintage is either hot (fruity) or cold (minerally) but not both, noted Brocard, "but in 2008 there's great tension between fruit and minerality." Two thousand nine is lower in acidity and rounder, he went on; the wines will be more approachable in their youth.
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Like a number of his colleagues in Chablis, Julien Brocard told me the 2007s were a little hard in their early months in bottle and will need time. He seemed to prefer the young 2008s, from a growing season that featured what he called a "so-so summer, fairly cool." The wines, he said, have as much acidity as the 2007s but they possess more density of material and very good harmony between minerality and fruit. My extensive tasting of the estate's '08s turned up a number of very promising wines, especially at the level of the top crus. The new vintage is the first crop of wines made by consulting enologist Nadine Gublin, who serves in the same role at Domaine Jacques Prieur in Meursault.
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