2005 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru

"The 2005s are significantly higher in acidity than the 2006s as well as more concentrated," said cellarmaster Patrick Piuze, "but the 2006s may be more typical Chablis due to their balance. They're more minerally and less fruit-driven wines. They're not bombs but they have finesse, structure and personality." Piuze admitted that most of his colleagues in Chablis prefer their 2005s, but noted that this may be partly because there was less room for error in 2006 due to the narrow window for harvesting ripe, healthy fruit. (I also got the feeling that Piuze has taken the Brocard wines to a higher level in 2006.) He used very little press wine in 2006 as the pHs of this juice tended to be too high. Following quick alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, all the wines except for the Clos were racked in mid-February. Piuze planned to use a bit more CO2 than usual to retain maximum freshness. (Martine's Wines, Novato, CA) Also recommended: 2005 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Domaine Sainte-Claire (86), 2005 Chablis Vau de Vey (86).

According to Julien Brocard, 2005 was a long growing season, and concentration from the wind drove grape sugars higher by as much as two and a half degrees in the week before the harvest. The estate did not make the full allowable yields in 2005, and thanks to the "oily" skins only wild yeasts were used to ferment the wines. Batonnage was not necessary in 2005 except where some stirring was needed to keep the fermentations going. Cellar master Patrick Piuze, who took over here in July of 2005, believes that some 2005s will be best for early drinking, as they are "too good now," while others will age well. Incidentally, beginning with 2006, Piuze and the Brocards are is getting much more involved in selecting harvesting dates for the family's fruit purchased from other growers.