2020 NeroBufaleffj

Anyone who doubts the longevity and site-transparent properties of Nero d’Avola needs to only check with the Gulfi portfolio. Over the last few years, the winery has sent assorted bottles from older vintages (2002 and 2003 were the most recent), which I’ve included in past reports to show how well these wines can age. This year, I thought it prudent to follow those up with a full-fledged vertical. I chose the NeroSanloré, which I tasted from the upcoming 2020 vintage, back to 2001 (the first release), a total of eight vintages. The NeroSanloré vineyard is situated only 700 meters from the sea at just 10-15 meters above sea level, growing in predominantly sandy soils. We added an older NeroMaccarj from 2006 to the mix after discovering how complex and vibrant the 2006 NeroSanloré was. The results of the tasting were astounding. While I’ve been a fan of mature Nero d’Avola for some time, seeing how well each of the vintages showed was remarkable. Cellaring these wines will reward patient collectors, which brings me to the upcoming 2020s. The wines have yet to be bottled and are still in inox (stainless steel), scheduled to be released in 2026. They possess a level of depth, energy and complexity that is seldom seen. While the result of a warm and dry year, the balance Gulfi achieved in these wines is spellbinding. I find a bit more muscle for the long term in the 2019s, but I wouldn’t pass up the chance to add the 2020s to my cellar.