2010 NeroBufaleffj

Simply put, Gulfi is one of the best--if not the best--producers of Nero d’Avola wines in Sicily as well as one of Italy’s top wine estates. A decade or so ago when many in Sicily were advocating turning Sicily into a brand, with wines generically labeled as such, Gulfi held firm and began single-zone (rather than single-vineyard) Nero d’Avola wine production. It is thanks to the Catania family, the owners of Gulfi, if today we know that there are differences between the Nero d’Avola wines made not just in Menfi, Camporeale and Pachino, but also within the Pachino production area itself, where single contrade such as Maccari, Baroni, Bufaleffi and San Lorenzo give rise to wildly different wines.

Another sure-fire sign of quality is Gulfi’s insistence on the alberello training system, which is arguably the best for producing wines of real complexity and finesse, as these old bush vines are perfectly adapted to the extreme environment of Sicily’s southeastern tip. Last but not least, consulting winemaker Salvo Foti, who knows more about Sicily and its wines than anybody else, is another ace up Gulfi’s sleeve.