2017 NeroBufaleffj

Tasting with co-owner Matteo Catania of Gulfi is always an eye-opening experience. When I think of Gulfi, the first thing that comes to mind is their lineup of single-vineyard Nero d’Avola - it’s amazing to consider when tasting through the range that such a large percentage of the variety made by other producers is merely passable. Some people might assume that Nero d'Avola should be nothing more than an easy-sipping, fresh and fruity wine to enjoy while staying at a resort on the Sicilian coast, but they would be wrong, and Gulfi is the producer that can prove it. For many years, I’ve enjoyed the upfront, high-energy and fruity nature of the Baronj, the balanced richness and underlying structure of the Maccarj, the big, brooding and intense fruit of the Bufaleffj and the remarkable beauty and precision of the Sanlorè. Tasting these wines is pure pleasure, but doing so while looking at a satellite map of the vineyards themselves as they cascade down toward the southern coast, literally to the point where you can see the water and sand from the vines, is unreal. What’s even better news for the Gulfi family is that as of 2020, the wines are permitted to bear the Pachino sub-zone on their labels – a victory for Gulfi, as it’s been a fight to legally separate this qualitative zone from the much larger Noto region. Gulfi is not only about Nero d’Avola; the winery also excels with a fresh and fruity Cerasuolo, as well as a Cerasuolo Classico that’s expertly refined in tonneaux. They have a mix of Nerello Mascalese and (of all things) Pinot Noir growing at 800 meters on the northern slope of Etna and a wickedly fresh Carricante planted closer to the winery. I’ve been tasting through this portfolio for many years now, both here and abroad, and I must say that Gulfi has been on a qualitative rise; these recent releases only prove that their forward momentum continues. Incidentally, I was also sent a 2002 NeroMaccarj from the winery’s cellar, as part of a library release program that Gulfi has been experimenting with in small quantities. At nearly 20 years old, this 2002 may be the most mature Nero d’Avola I’ve ever tasted. It was bottled at the same time as the original release and held in the cellar until this year. As a lover of mature wine, I found tasting this to be a pleasure and a testament to the variety’s capacity to age.