2008 Barolo Brunate
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Ai Fiori, New York, in May 2014.
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2020 - 2038
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The finest 2008 Barolos are utterly magnificent, profound wines that represent a new paradigm for Italy’s most famous and collectible red. Simply put, today’s Barolos no longer require decades of cellaring to deliver the fireworks that make Nebbiolo such a singular grape. The late harvest yielded a set of beautifully perfumed, sensual wines that are all about finesse.
I was thrilled to lead this intimate tasting at Pebble Beach Food & Wine in April 2014. For the occasion, I chose eight reference-point Barolos covering all styles - from super-classic to modern. Emily Wines, Shayne Bjornholm and Jay James, a formidable trio of Master Sommeliers, joined me on the panel and were incredibly generous in sharing their views with the audience.
For more information on the wines, readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before the tasting. A comprehensive overview of the vintage is available in 2008 Barolo: The Incredible Lightness of Being. Lastly, our Interactive Barolo Map is the perfect companion through which to explore the vineyards mentioned in the video and the tasting notes that accompany this article.
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This wine was tasted at the Gala Dinner at the World Wine Symposium, Villa d'Este, Italy.
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2020 - 2038
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I remember the first time I visited Giuseppe Rinaldi, about ten years ago. Buying the wines was no problem, even going back a few vintages. Today, the world has caught on and the wines seem to literally evaporate from the market. Barolo lovers recognize this small family-run estate embodies all of the qualities of the traditional school in Barolo. One of the developments of the last few years is that the Barolo Cannubi/S. Lorenzo-Ravera is much closer in quality to the Brunate-Le Coste, although in terms of their personalities, the wines remain naturally quite different. Other than that, not that much has changed. The most modern addition to the cellar is a telephone – rotary, of course. Rinaldi's 2008s are just as beautiful from bottle as they were when I tasted them from barrel last fall.
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2018 - 2038
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There is something very reassuring about visiting this tiny cellar just outside the center of Barolo. It is as if time stands still, and in this frantic world, that is just fine. A visit with Rinaldi takes time, as there is always a lot of philosophy (not to mention a handful of unrepeatable comments) sprinkled in between tastes. “You don't really want to taste every cask, do you?” asks Rinaldi, slightly annoyed he is going to have to climb atop each and every cask to retrieve the wines. “You bet I do,” I reply. The only change at Rinaldi over the last few years has been the increasing presence and involvement of Giuseppe Rinaldi's daughter Marta. Readers might want to check out my video interview with Marta Rinaldi on our site. As for the 2008s, well, they are pretty special. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these wines. In my opinion, the Rinaldi Baroli remain the most traditional of the traditional Baroli.
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Although I visited Rinaldi near the end of my mid-September tour, he was a good two weeks short of picking his barbera and nebbiolo, in spite of the fact that many of his colleagues were already beginning to harvest their Barolo vines. A few key facts about Rinaldi, who always looks like he has just come in from the vines (he probably has) and was wearing an "Alcoholics Unanimous" tee shirt on my latest visit: he smokes small brown Tuscan cigars, even in the cellar; loves dogs, Sonny Rollins and vintage motorcycles; and refers to his wife as "la tigresse." He also makes some of the best old-school Barolos left. Rinaldi describes his 2008s as "fatter and more Barolo than the subtler 2007s, and better than the 2009s as well. Barolo needs long, slow, regular ripening, with cool nights, and the nebbiolo ripened too quickly in the warmer summers in '07 and '09."
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