2009 Barolo Villero

Mauro Mascarello's 2009 Barolos are baffling now that they are in bottle. I have tasted the 2009s three times since the wines were bottled last summer and have yet to find the depth or complexity I saw when the wines were in barrel. Historically, Mascarello's Barolos have often been tough to fully understand at the outset, although earlier vintages have always shown signs of their ultimate potential. I had hoped to see the 2009s blossom, as other vintages have, but that has yet to happen. Today, all four 2009 Barolos are diluted, lack depth and show feeble color intensity, even within the standards of what is normal at this address. It is impossible for an outsider to know exactly the reason or reasons why these wines have turned out as they have, but my sense is that the 2009s will deteriorate from here, rather than improve. Therefore, I can no longer recommend the Mascarello 2009s. I strongly suggest readers considering the 2009s taste them before buying them. Readers who may already own the 2009s should taste them immediately. I have to admit, it is with great sadness that I write these words, as the Mascarello Barolos have been personal favorites for decades. The 2009s simply miss the mark.

Two thousand nine was a hot year but not extremely so, according to Mascarello, producing "elegant, agreeable wines with good but not great structure, to drink on the young side. The wines lack a bit of complexity and the calcaire did not give great spine, but the wines should still age well." Two thousand eight is more to Mascarello's taste, and he described the young 2010s as "more complex and richer in extract." Although I don't usually taste unfinished wines here, Mascarello showed me a sample of the 2010 Barolo Monprivato; it showed exciting potential. Also recommended: 2012 Dolcetto d'Alba Santo Stefano di Perno.

A morning spent with Mauro Mascarello and his family is another of the highlights of my year. As is always the case, I tasted through all the Barolos still in barrel. I find it fascinating to follow the evolution of these wines, some of the toughest to understand when young. Like most of his colleagues, Mauro Mascarello bottles in the summer, so I will report one these wines once again later this year.