2004 Barolo Villero

Mauro Mascarello didn't make a Barolo Villero in 2005 because this fruit picked after the rain got too ripe and was affected by botrytis. But Mascarello is much happier about his flagship Monprivato. "The 2005s are less powerful than the 2004s, but they're as complex and dense," he told me. "And they're more perfumed and agreeable for early drinking, even if they will also age well." As in recent years, I find the Barolo Monprivato (and the Ca d'Morrisio, from a portion of the Monprivato hillside replanted in 1988 with a selected clone of michet) to be the highlights in this cellar. But I must add that the barberas I tasted in September showed less of the sometimes-offputting pungent herbal character of past vintages, which is all to the good.

Mauro Mascarello is one of the most fascinating personalities in Piedmont. He is also arguably the longest-tenured active winemaker in the Langhe, having been directly responsible for all aspects of production at his family's estate since 1970, which makes him an invaluable resource on the traditions of the region. Today's younger generation of high-end producers speak with great reverence about Mascarello and even more so about his father Gepin who was a legend in these parts. Mascarello was an internationally-renowned producer decades before today's big names were even making wines under their own labels. Twenty years ago, Mascarello's signature Barolo Monprivato was one of the most expensive Barolos on the market. Then the new-age style became dominant during the 1990s and the estate languished in perception, but not quality. In recent times Mascarello has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity which is long overdue. Prices have gone up, but the Barolo Monprivato in particular remains a steal relative to other world-class wines. Monprivato is one of the handful of Italian wines than can hold its own with the best being made anywhere in the world.

I would not describe Mauro Mascarello as a contrarian on the subject of vintage quality, but he does sometimes appear to be functioning in his own microclimate. "Two thousand four gave very ripe grapes that produced perfumed, balanced, fine wines that taste very good today and have a complete structure. But I'm not sure they have the stuffing to be great. " He added that he nonetheless prefers 2004 and 2003 to his 2001s, which he finds to be open now. "But the 2000s are finer than the 2001s, as their tannins are less rude. " Mascarello still carries out a full three weeks of maceration for his Barolos, including 10 to 12 days of post-fermentation time on the skins. He told me he normally starts drinking his Barolos five or six years after the bottling.