2003 Barolo Villero

I would not describe Mauro Mascarello as a contrarian on the subject of vintage quality, but he does sometimes appear to be functioning in his own microclimate. "Two thousand four gave very ripe grapes that produced perfumed, balanced, fine wines that taste very good today and have a complete structure. But I'm not sure they have the stuffing to be great. " He added that he nonetheless prefers 2004 and 2003 to his 2001s, which he finds to be open now. "But the 2000s are finer than the 2001s, as their tannins are less rude. " Mascarello still carries out a full three weeks of maceration for his Barolos, including 10 to 12 days of post-fermentation time on the skins. He told me he normally starts drinking his Barolos five or six years after the bottling.

Mauro Mascarello is one of the few producers who prefers h is 2003 Barolos to h is 2001s as he finds they have more power and intensity while also maintaining finesse and a sense of classic ism. The wines certainly have more power, but I am not sure I would agree they have more finesse. In any event, h is 2003 Barolos are among the best of the vintage, in particular the Santo Stefano di Perno and Monprivato. I also tasted the 2003 Ca' d' Mor issio from barrel a few months ago, and it is shaping up to be a remarkably rich wine very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Mascarello hasn't decided when he will release the 2001 Ca' d' Mor issio, but it, too, is prom ising, as is h is entire range of 2004 Barolos.