2008 Barolo Villero

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Two thousand nine was a hot year but not extremely so, according to Mascarello, producing "elegant, agreeable wines with good but not great structure, to drink on the young side. The wines lack a bit of complexity and the calcaire did not give great spine, but the wines should still age well." Two thousand eight is more to Mascarello's taste, and he described the young 2010s as "more complex and richer in extract." Although I don't usually taste unfinished wines here, Mascarello showed me a sample of the 2010 Barolo Monprivato; it showed exciting potential. Also recommended: 2012 Dolcetto d'Alba Santo Stefano di Perno.

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Drinking Window

2013 - 2018

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Mauro Mascarello's 2008 Baroli have closed down considerably since I tasted them from cask in November, 2011. The 2008s were just bottled a few months ago. I expect they will be more expressive in another 6-12 months. Overall, the 2008s are mid-weight wines built on grace and perfume. I don't see the pure power of 2006 nor the opulence of 2007, to name two recent vintages, but wines that are built more along the lines of 2005. I expect the 2008s will age on their acidity rather than fruit, but these wines always have a way of transforming in bottle, so we will see. There is little doubt Nebbiolo did better here than Barbera in 2008, as was true throughout Piemonte. The 2008 Barberas are good, but average, or perhaps slightly better than that within the context of the estate's long, established history.

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Drinking Window

2016 - 2028

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One of the great tastings in Piemonte is sitting down with Mauro Mascarello and his son Giuseppe, and going through all of their wines from barrel. Vintage 2008 is looking good so far. The wines have great transparency to site and plenty of personality. Mascarello planned to bottle the 2008 Baroli during the summer of 2012.

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