2019 Larigi

Silvia Altare made some of the most compelling Barolos of the vintage. Here 2018s remind me of the 1998s, a strong vintage here. The wines have gorgeous purity of fruit and impeccable balance. "Vineyard work was challenging," Altare told me. "We did a total of 17 treatments, far above the average, and we de-leafed aggressively." The 2018s saw 4-5 days on the skins in rotary tanks. Malos were done in tank, after which the wines were racked into French oak barrels, with about 20% new wood, where they spent two years. The exception is the Cannubi, which comes from a tiny parcel and is vinified in a conventional tank because of the small size of that crop. The Altare 2018s are terrific. I also tasted the 2019 Langhes, which remain attractive wines in their peer groups.