2010 Larigi

A long-time lover of Burgundy, Elio Altare is one of many Barolo modernists who treats his nebbiolo gently, almost as if it were pinot noir.He uses no commercial yeasts or enzymes, racks his wines a maximum of three times in all, and bottles without fining or filtration during the third summer after the harvest.Altare wasn't yet swallowing the hype about 2010, maintaining that "the wines could lack flesh and sweetness.What's a grand vin?" he asked rhetorically."Is it a black color?Is it 15% alcohol?For me, the most important thing is to make wine without faults every year."Altare described his 2009 Barolos as "nerveux, like the 2006s," adding that they are juicy and tight and will need a lot of time in the cellar.He went on to compare the 2008s to the 1988s for their finesse.As in recent years, my tasting began with Altare's intriguing Az. Ag. Campogrande white wines from steep terraced vineyards on the Ligurian Coast.

Every time I visit Elio Altare and his daughter Silvia I think the same thing: I need to drink more Altare! Simply, put this is a majestic set of new releases. The 2010s will give readers an early look at the quality of that year, while the 2009s show why Altare remains very much among the top echelon of growers in Piedmont. Stylistically, the 2010s are like the 2004s, but with a little more mid-palate pliancy and generosity. I can't wait to see how the 2010 Barolos turn out from bottle. The 2009s are among the wines of a challenging and uneven year that saw warmer than normal temperatures and an early harvest.