2013 Larigi

These new releases find Elio Altare at the top of his game. What else is new? Actually, quite a bit. These days, it's Altare's daughter, Silvia, who is increasingly running the show while Altare spends more time on his passion projects in Liguria and the rustic hillsides in western Piedmont, where Altare is now making Castelmagno, arguably Piedmont's most famous cheese. Over the last thirty years, so much has been made about Altar's innovative approach to winemaking than his decidedly artisan approach to farming has completely been overlooked. One of the things I often search for at a small estate is where the garden is. If it's close to the vineyards, there's a pretty good chance that there aren't a whole lot of chemicals making their way into the fields.

Altare keeps some of the most detailed notes on growing conditions of anyone I visit in Piedmont, so his observations are especially worth taking into account. Like many growers, Altare had a choice of whether or not to treat his vineyards in the spring, when an early threat of peronospera loomed. His decision to intervene saved the crop, while some of his neighbors just around the bend weren't so fortunate. Altare gave his 2013s very short times on the skins, even by his own standards. Late season rains caused the grapes to bloat and the skins to become fragile, while unexpectedly boosting yields by 10-15%. The 2012 Barolos reflect the mid-weight, gracious style of the year. Altare compares 2012 to years like 1993 or 1995 (where there was no hail) in terms of structure. In my view, the tannins are more finessed than either of those two vintages. Despite two hailstorms the Cannubi is especially beautiful.