2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Embrazées 1er Cru

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Vincent Morey told me that the 2010s showed a very good combination of richness and acidity at the outset but that, after the malolactic fermentations, some of the wines display less nervosite than he would have predicted. "The 2008s have more tartaric acidity and vibrancy than the 2010s, but also more pineappley surmaturite," he noted. He also mentioned that he picked later in 2010 than did his brother Thomas. The chardonnay malos were over by February, and the wines had been racked, assembled and returned to barrel on their fine lees in early spring. Morey likes to use about 40% new oak for his crus, so he showed me samples from one-year-old barrels, which he felt would be most representative of the ultimate blends. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

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2013 - 2013

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Pierre Morey began harvesting on September 10. The wines saw bâtonnage every two weeks. The malos were very fast, and were completed by January. The wines wre subsequently racked to steel and bottled in August 2010. I tasted all of the 2010s from barrel. It is a vintage I like very much here.

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Vincent Morey made the full allowable yield in 2009, bringing in his fruit with potential alcohol between 12.2% and 13.1% and chaptalizing most of his wines about a half degree. He describes the young '09s as nicely balanced "and not necessarily early agers." The 2008s, owing to some surmaturite, are wines to drink younger, within the next five years, he added. Vincent now uses a stainless steel tube to return his wines to barrel after they've been racked and assembled. The objective is to keep as much CO2 as possible, in order to reduce the risk of premature oxidation. Like his brother Thomas, Vincent bottles before the following harvest, partly due to limited space in his cellar. But he also believes that even if he kept his wines in cuves for another couple of months, they might lose fruit and dry out.

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