2015 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2020 - 2033
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Thibault Liger-Belair began harvesting on September 8, with “a lot of differences in maturity between vineyards. It was tricky to find the best balance of phenolic ripeness and sugar levels.” He picked quickly, though, finishing everything but his vines on the Hautes-Côtes before the 12th, then carried out soft extractions, with some of his lesser cuvées getting no more than three punchdowns in total, with a new stainless steel "claw" that barely submerges the cap.
“The main challenge in 2015 was to maintain freshness,” said Liger-Belair, adding that “today the ‘15s are more energetic than we expected, if a bit animal in character” (no doubt due at least partly to reduction). The malolactic ferementations started early but then stopped until March, and the wines had not been racked or sulfured when I tried them in December. Liger-Belair increased his percentage of new oak a bit in '15 but emphasized that he uses a very light toast--tartare, as he called it. He noted that because there was little vine stress in 2015, the wines are unlikely ever to go through a totally closed phase in the bottle.
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