2010 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Louis-Michel Liger-Belair's wines keep getting better. The improvement is less a reflection of the underlying vintages and more the result of the work the estate has done to convert their vineyards to biodynamic farming. These are some of the most unique and compelling wines being made anywhere in Burgundy. The house style emphasizes the weightless transparency, finesse and sweetness that only Pinot Noir (and perhaps Nebbiolo) is capable of. As good as the 2010s are, the 2009s have also turned out beautifully. I will report on those wines in my April artcle. Readers may also want to check out my video interview with Louis-Michel Liger-Belair posted on this site for more historical perspective on the domaine.

Thibault Liger-Belair, who did not make any outlandish claims last year for the quality of 2009, described his young 2010s as "very pinot, with great energy. The wines are generous but with a strict side. They were easy to vinify and I'm surprised by the suppleness and elegance they're showing after the malolactic fermentations. When acids and tannins are ripe, that brings a saline, iodiney aspect to the wines, especially when the vineyards are on calcaire." Liger-Belair does a lot of pumping over during the fermentations but a total of only two to four punchdowns per cuvee. He prefers to use fine-grained oak from chalky or sandy soil in forests in the Loire Valley or Champagne, and uses a very light toast to his barrels. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)