2012 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Some of the 2012 malos were just finishing here at the time of my visit, noted Thibault Liger-Belair, who began picking in 2012 on September 24.He believes that the 2012s have "the thickness of vintages like 2009 and 2005 but with a lot of energy too, especially the wines from calcaire soil."The 2012s, he went on, are characterized by black fruits and warm spices and will need more time in barrel to develop "on the back half."Although Liger-Belair makes extensive use of whole clusters, he normally destems his wines from chalky soils as he is afraid that the stems might accentuate the vegetal side of these wines, which are always more "vertical" in the early going.

Thibault Liger-Belair's 2012s are gorgeous. Like all of his colleagues, Liger-Belair was severely challenged by the minuscule quantities nature gave him to work with in 2012. Production is down more than 50% across the board, which is tragic considering how special and distinctive the wines are. I have also included notes on the four wines I tasted from Liger-Belair's Moulin-à-Vent estate, as they are terrific. Frankly, after tasting hundreds of 2012 Burgundies that are going to be frightfully expensive and virtually impossible to find, it is refreshing to taste wines that deliver so much quality at prices that are quite reasonable. Liger-Belair's Côte de Nuits reds are going to be hard to find, but if you see them, don't hesitate.