2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Village
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2014 - 2026
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Sylvie Esmonin's 2011s have turned out as I expected based on tastings from barrel. Overall production is down around 30% across the board, most of that the result of hot, dry weather during the early part of the summer that caused high amounts of millerandage (shot berries). Potential alcohols came in around the lower range of normal, only the Clos St. Jacques was lightly chaptalized. In additon to these four wines, I also tasted the Cote de Nuits, which thus far has not recovered from the heavy reduction it showed in barrel.
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Also recommended: 2011 Cote de Nuits-Villages (86).
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Two thousand eleven brought the earliest harvest ever at this estate, as Sylvie Esmonin began picking on September 3 (vs. September 5 in 2003). "The berries stayed small in April, May and June due to dry conditions and a lot of millerandage," she said, "but then the grapes exploded in July and August. Still, we didn't have as big a crop as we would have had in a more normal year." The domain-wide yield was in the range of 32 to 35 hectoliters per hectare. There was very little rot in Clos Saint-Jacques and other well-drained sites, added Esmonin who vinified with a higher percentage of whole clusters than usual. As ambient conditions were very warm at harvest time, she wanted to use more stems to regulate the heat of the fermentation and prolong it. Still, the temperatures rose "into the 30s [centigrade]," compared to a normal 28 to 30. The 2011s had been racked into cuves two weeks prior to my visit.
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