1999 Gevrey-Chambertin Village

Sylvie Esmonin describes her 2000s as fat wines without the power or length of the more tannic and consistent '99s. The 2000 fruit brought higher sugars but lower acidity than that of '99, and both years produced full crop loads (around 42 hectoliters per hectare for her top holding, the Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques). There was some incipient rot in July on the Cote de Beaune, said Esmonin, who now has a rental agreement on a parcel of Volnay Santenots. She chilled the must in order to prolong the pre-fermentation cold soak for six or seven days, then did a cooler but longer fermentation than usual. Esmonin has increased the percentage of new oak in recent vintages: up to 50% for the Gevrey vieilles vignes in 2000, and 65% for the Clos Saint-Jacques.

Sylvie Esmonin will be increasing her percentage of new oak in 2000 to 60% for the Gevrey villages and 75% for the Clos Saint-Jacques. One can only hope that these stylish wines will maintain their delicacy and finesse. Esmonin carried out a green harvest in July of '99, then did substantial leaf pulling to aerate the remaining fruit. Yields were still considerably higher than in '98, a harvest that required careful elimination of less ripe and less sound grapes. I found both of the recent vintages extremely attractive and easy to drink.