2006 Batard-Montrachet
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Bernard Mollard is convinced that the 2007 harvest was saved by the last three weeks of the season. "I'm content with the freshness and finesse of 2007," he told me. "The wines are like the '04s but with a bit more material and lower acidity." Mollard started picking chardonnay on September 4, and brought in his premier crus beginning two days later. "But we could have waited a bit longer," he admitted. The Batard-Montrachet came in with potential alcohol of 13.4% but Mollard's other vineyards came in between 11.9% and 12.9% and he chaptalized his various cuvees between a half and a full degree.
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Here's yet another Chassagne-Montrachet winemaker who prefers 2006 to 2005 for chardonnay. "Perhaps the 2005s will be better with aging, but today I feel that the 2006s have more material; they're more full of fruit," said Bernard Mollard. "If I had one regret, I would have started on the ban, rather than waiting until the Wednesday, the 20th. We lost volume in the grapes but also freshness in the days before the harvest. Then we had a hot wind on Thursday and the sugar levels went up fast." In fact, Mollard added, he had originally planned to pick on the 22nd but was able to move up this date by two days. "We would have been better off with a bit less alcohol," he admitted, although he emphasized that none of the wines reached 14%. Yields in 2006 were generally a "normal" 48 to 52 hectoliters per hectare, said Mollard.
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