1999 Batard-Montrachet
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Bernard Mollard likes the vivacity of the 2000s. Although he considers '00 and '99 to be very close in style, he finds the '00s to be fresher and better balanced, with almost as much sugar but more acidity. "Only 1% or 2% of the berries were affected by rot. The '99s are sometimes a bit spineless," he noted. "In 2000, we got very good sugar levels in the two weeks leading up to the harvest. We can gain a full percent or more in a week now in September, not like 25 years ago when the most we could normally hope for was about a half-degree." Mollard uses about one-third new oak for his premier crus. The 2000s finished their malos early, but only the Virondot had been racked at the end of May. I focused on Mollard domaine wines; he also has a negociant operation.
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As high as permitted yields were in '99 (63 hectoliters per hectare for premier crus), Bernard Mollard points out, they were even higher in 1982, at 84 h/h. In any event, he adds, the '99s began with healthy ripeness (he harvested fruit with natural sugars from 12.7% to 14.1%), and the wines are freshened by ripe balancing acids. Mollard also ventured the opinion that his barrels were better in '99 than in '98, even though they came essentially from the same sources. The '99s showed well on my recent visit, as did several of Mollard top '98s. In the earlier year, says Mollard, frost was not a factor, except for a bit in his Virondot vines high on the hillside.
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