2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru

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There is always a moment when I materialise at a Domaine, only to be met with blank expressions, a look that apologetically says, “No, we don’t have any appointment.” This year, it is Jacques Carillon in Puligny. A quick perusal of recent e-mail exchanges confirms that the oversight was on their side, not mine, which is probably the first time. (Upon further investigation, I believe my appointment was mixed up with someone else’s.) Thankfully, Carillon has a small portfolio, so we nip across the courtyard, where I taste his 2020s in bottle and a solitary representative from 2021. “One week, the temperature was 25° Celsius and the vines burst into life, then it fell to -6° Celsius the following week,” Carillon laments. “I lost 35% of the Puligny Village Cru because of the protection from the candles, but I lost around 80% of the Premier Crus.” Since that is the heart of his portfolio, quantities are so diminutive that he decides not to show them, except for that Village Cru. I feel that even this wine is discombobulated by the traumatic season.

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Carillon was not sporting his trademark red jacket when I visited his bijou winery in the heart of Puligny; a late spot of autumn sun meant that it was not necessary. As usual, Carillon showed me through his latest bottled vintage: 2019 plus the 2020s from vat from his 5.25 hectares of vineyard. “The 2020s have less concentration and richness than 2019. It is a more Burgundy style of wine,” he explained. “I started picking on August 23, compared to September 10 in 2019, with the alcohol around 13°. The wines are all raised in around 20% new oak. I believe they should age well.” This was an excellent small set of wines. Among the 2019s, I thought the Puligny Les Perrières really stood out, whereas the Les Referts just has the edge.

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