2012 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru

In contrast to his brother Francois, Jacques Carillon's 2013s were going through long, late malos as of the time of my visit at the beginning of June (the Bourgogne Blanc was barely starting).Carillon told me that the crop levels of his crus were down 50% from normal in '13 owing to the cold weather during the flowering and the small size of the grapes."The 2012s are more fat and enveloping, and more concentrated, while the '13s are more taut," he said.I have opted not to publish notes on the 2013s that were not at least halfway through their secondary fermentations when I stopped by to taste.

"It was never really hot in 2012 and the cool nights protected the minerality in the grapes," said Jacques Carillon, whose crop levels were down anywhere from 50% to 75% owing to cold weather during the flowering and the three hail events."The fat of the wines is blocking their minerality now," he told me."The 2012s don't have the same tension as the 2010s.But they're concentrated wines with good acidity."Carillon finds the 2011s more floral and open on the nose, but he also feels that they have good minerality.Acidity levels in the finished '11s are quite healthy:in the 4.5 to 4.9 grams-per-liter range.Carillon filters the bourbes and thus brings only the fine lees into barrel.He ages his premier crus in about 20% new oak, and the village wines in roughly 15%.