2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru

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Monsieur Carillon cut a striking figure attired in his regulation facemask and thick rounded glasses. This is always a short tasting, as Carillon only produces half-a-dozen cuvées, which afforded me time to taste his bottled 2018s after the 2019s. “There was a little frost in Puligny,” he rued. “We found that the grapes were very small. We were predicting a harvest on 20 September, but as sugar levels increased that date was brought forward to 15 and finally 10 September. Yields were low due to a combination of frost, the poor flowering, plus the dryness. The 2019s are matured in 15% new oak for Village Crus and 20% for the Premier Crus, alcohol levels are around 14° and 14.5° respectively. The dryness concentrated both the sugar and acidity. The 2018s, which were bottled in March 2020, are more massive and contain less alcohol than the 2019s.” Carillon’s wines are your quintessential nervy, steely Pulignys. Choosing between the two most recent vintages was difficult but at this address I might err slightly towards 2018 over 2019 by a small and mutable margin.

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My tasting with Jacques Carillon never takes long since this diminutive Domaine only has half a dozen cuvées. And it will get shorter from 2018 since his father's lease on the Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes came to an end so that henceforth the totality of the family's holding will be made by his brother at Domaine François Carillon. At least the quality of wines at this address is superlative. He told me that he began the picking on 28 August and that he adopts the "Roulot" method of 12 months in barrel and then six months in stainless steel before bottling. As usual, I tasted through the last two vintages, so you will find notes for both 2017 and 2018 here .

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