2013 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru

Not surprisingly, Jacques Carillon prefers 2013 to 2014 for its balance and typical Burgundy character, as he generally finds more minerality in the cooler, higher-acid years. "The 2014s are more enveloping and flattering, while the '13s are more like the 2008s." But he considers 2014 to be "a very good vintage with good material," as crop levels for the premier crus were down 30% to 35% owing to hail and to the smaller size of the grapes. He harvested between September 10 and 16 in '14 with potential alcohol levels between 12.5% and 13% and chaptalized roughly half a degree. Carillon told me that following a débourbage lasting from 12 to 18 hours he begins with clear juice but that he then adds back a liter or two of lees per barrel. He generally stirs the lees every three weeks or so until the end of the malo but more like once a month for the 2014s.