2015 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru
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As is their normal practice, the Boillots harvested very early in 2015, bringing in their Pinot Noir between August 29 and September 4 (they started picking their Chardonnay on August 25). Grape sugars ranged from 13% to 13.8% and there was no chaptalization, noted Guillaume Boillot, who has had responsibility for making the red wines here since 2012 while father Henri continues to handle the whites. The grapes were thick-skinned, with very few seeds, and crop levels ranged from 12 to 15 hectoliters per hectare. Guillaume noted that yields were higher in 2016, except in their village holdings in Volnay, which were hit hard by frost. But the Volnay premier crus were spared in 2016.
Guillaume carried out shorter macerations than usual, using more remontages and délestages but not pigeages, vinifying some of his ripest wines with a percentage of whole clusters. Guillaume told me that, compared to the wines made by his father, he "works more for finesse, freshness of PInot Noir and definition of terroir," doing less extraction. He has dramatically shortened the pre-fermentation cold maceration and nowadays he's making more extensive use of barrels air-dried for 36 months, as he finds that these containers bring more freshness "and mark the wines less." Fermentation temperatures do not exceed 32 degrees C. here, which Boillot said was especially important in 2015.
The malolactic fermentations were relatively quick, finishing between March and May of 2016, and all of the Boillot reds had been in tanks for a month when I tasted them in November. The Boillots planned to start bottling them in early December. “The 2015s are nicely balanced, with pHs around 3.4, because we picked before the acids plunged,” noted Boillot. He expressed the opinion that “Volnay was the ripest village in 2015” but added that he finds some Côte de Nuits wines a little too ripe.”
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