2002 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru

Henri Boillot, who was a very early harvester in 2003, starting on August 22, told me he only kept the round grapes in 2003, eliminating those that were shriveled by excessive heat and sun.Often this required picking almost grape by grape, he said, and he ultimately produced about 18 hectoliters per hectare."I want to make pinot noir, not Rhone wine," he explained, adding that he acidified his musts slightly during vinification and now has wines with pHs in the moderate 3.45 range.All the fruit went into refrigerated cuves, which enabled him to do his regular extended maceration a froid of ten days.He did no pigeage in 2003, only remontage, and kept the fermentation temperatures to 28oC, compared to 34oC in 2002.In 2003, according to Boillot, the concentration came from the sun, while in 2002 it was due to the wind, which came after a rainy August that had swollen the grapes.The fruit in 2002 is more red in character, while in 2003 it's more black, he added.Surprisingly-to me at least-Boillot prefers 2003, as he likes silky wines; he finds the 2003s to be fuller and more harmonious.Incidentally, Boillot says he's finished with buying red negociant wines. "In difficult years, it's necessary to get pinot yields down to 20 hectoliters per hectare, in order to protect the terroir.But no one is willing to reduce their yields so much.This is less of an issue for chardonnay, which can support higher yields."(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)

Boillot picked his 2002 crop late, beginning on September 23 and eliminating, as he put it, the grapes that didn't please him.The crop level was in the very low 30 hectoliters-per-hectare range, and grape sugars were a very high 13% to 14%, with the Volnay tending to be around 14%.Boillot describes the 2002s as less black fruit in character than the '99s. They have more crunchy red fruit notes, and generally better acidity," he said. And of course the yields were lower in 2002."(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington D.C.