2003 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru

Henri Boillot describes 2004 as a delicate vintage. "The wines are not thick or particularly structured," he says. Following three hail events during the summer, Boillot sorted virtually berry by berry (he literally brings his sorting table into the vineyard). And that was after he went through the vines at the beginning of September and removed the clusters most affected by the hail of August 23. "The wines will be charmers, but they must be drunk within seven or eight years. And they will never be better than during their first three years. One advantage is that the tannins in 2004 are finer than those of the 2001s. "Boillot told me he will reduce his prices for his 2004 reds, but not for his whites. Interestingly, although Boillot harvested very early in 2003, beginning on August 22, he told me he might have picked four days sooner. But his top cuvees are superb. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )

Henri Boillot, who was a very early harvester in 2003, starting on August 22, told me he only kept the round grapes in 2003, eliminating those that were shriveled by excessive heat and sun.Often this required picking almost grape by grape, he said, and he ultimately produced about 18 hectoliters per hectare."I want to make pinot noir, not Rhone wine," he explained, adding that he acidified his musts slightly during vinification and now has wines with pHs in the moderate 3.45 range.All the fruit went into refrigerated cuves, which enabled him to do his regular extended maceration a froid of ten days.He did no pigeage in 2003, only remontage, and kept the fermentation temperatures to 28oC, compared to 34oC in 2002.In 2003, according to Boillot, the concentration came from the sun, while in 2002 it was due to the wind, which came after a rainy August that had swollen the grapes.The fruit in 2002 is more red in character, while in 2003 it's more black, he added.Surprisingly-to me at least-Boillot prefers 2003, as he likes silky wines; he finds the 2003s to be fuller and more harmonious.Incidentally, Boillot says he's finished with buying red negociant wines. "In difficult years, it's necessary to get pinot yields down to 20 hectoliters per hectare, in order to protect the terroir.But no one is willing to reduce their yields so much.This is less of an issue for chardonnay, which can support higher yields."(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)