2004 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru

Henri Boillot describes 2004 as a delicate vintage. "The wines are not thick or particularly structured," he says. Following three hail events during the summer, Boillot sorted virtually berry by berry (he literally brings his sorting table into the vineyard). And that was after he went through the vines at the beginning of September and removed the clusters most affected by the hail of August 23. "The wines will be charmers, but they must be drunk within seven or eight years. And they will never be better than during their first three years. One advantage is that the tannins in 2004 are finer than those of the 2001s. "Boillot told me he will reduce his prices for his 2004 reds, but not for his whites. Interestingly, although Boillot harvested very early in 2003, beginning on August 22, he told me he might have picked four days sooner. But his top cuvees are superb. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )