2009 Echézeaux Grand Cru

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This small domaine is one of Burgundy's best kept secrets. Emmanuel Rouget farms 8 hectares of vineyards, of which he owns 2.5. Rouget began harvesting on September 12. The fruit was 10% destemmed. Fermentation and maceration lasted about 20 days. The wines were pressed, and the sediment was left to decant naturally for two days. The wines were then racked into barrel with the fine lees. The malos were fast in 2009; they took only 4 months to complete, versus 17 for The 2008s. Rouget expected to do no rackings until the wines were prepared for bottling, with no fining or filtration. I tasted all of these wines from new oak barrels. Readers will note that some of these wines, especially at the entry-level are not aged in 100% new oak. That means the samples I tasted are not representative of the final wines. Ordinarily in a situation like this I would ask to taste multiple barrels, but my schedule was particularly tight on the day I visited Rouget. Of course, this is not an issue with the top wines, which are aged in 100% new oak. This is a beautiful set of wines from top to bottom.

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Rouget, who has owned a sorting table since 1990, told me that using it in 2009 was indispensable. "We picked in surmaturite, and we eliminated about 10% of the fruit, including overripe and underripe berries, even some rotten grapes." (In many other cellars, it crossed my mind that the wines could have been even better had growers not been seduced by the favorable growing season and harvest conditions into essentially using all their fruit.) Grape sugars averaged 13.5%. As a number of his colleagues pointed out, the heavy rain in mid-July probably resulted in thinner grape skins. In fact, says Rouget, the skins were thicker in both 2008 and 2010. "But 2009 shows more finesse than 2005," he said, adding that "2009 will be a vintage of pleasure."

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