1998 Echézeaux Grand Cru
France
Flagey Echézeaux
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Rouget described the young '99s as fruity wines with average acidity. They are deeper in color than the '98s, with lower pHs. Still, he planned to bottle the '99s in January of 2001, or about three months earlier than he finished the '98s in 2000. Rouget did a strict elimination of the less-ripe grapes in '99 but still made the maximum permitted yields.
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I stopped by here on a dreary, drizzly morning in early November, before the really nasty cold and snow settled in for the rest of my stay in Burgundy. Rouget's young '98s were a bit under the weather as well, and it will be necessary to follow up on these wines after the bottling. In addition to showing some of the severity of the vintage, a few of them lacked the verve and delineation one might expect from this first-rate producer in a year with reasonably low pHs. For his own part, Rouget prefers the '97s today "for their roundness and suppleness. The '98s are not exactly green," he told me, "but they seem rather dry today." The '98s were mostly racked in July and will be bottled in early spring.