2004 Echézeaux Grand Cru
France
Flagey Echézeaux
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Like a number of his colleagues, Rouget was careful not to overextract his 2005s, a group of wines he described as having enormous natural concentration but "regular" ripeness. He used a bit more new oak than usual for the village wines (70%, vs. a more normal 50%). In 2004, a huge selection was necessary due to the prevalence of oidium, but in 2005 he only eliminated 4% or 5% of the rose, or underripe, grapes. "The biggest difference between the two years is in the skin to juice ratio of the grapes," Rouget summarized. As always, the fermentation temperatures here were quite cool: the Echezeaux climbed to 29oC but the rest, said Rouget, did not exceed 26o.
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Rouget told me that it was necessary to eliminate a substantial portion of the fruit in 2004 on his table de trie. In fact, he told me, he had to switch off the table, because the grapes were passing by too fast for the sorters to eliminate all the affected fruit (Rouget did not make a Savigny-les-Beaune due to the outbreak of oidium). Rouget then tailored his vinification and elevage to preserve "the finesse of pinot," doing less cold maceration than usual because the grape sugars were already high, and then using very little new oak to age the wines. He planned to bottle early, in December.