2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
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Bernard Dugat told me that 2004 was his 30th anniversary as a winemaker. In recent years he has done less and less punching down of the cap during fermentation. now usually just once a day. Dugat continues to buy more vines when they become available (he recently purchased a tiny parcel of very old vines in Petite Chapelle), although additions tend to be tiny owing to the exorbitant cost of land in the best Gevrey crus. Dugat's 2003s are about as good as this vintage gets. He told me he selected virtually berry by berry with an eye toward eliminating the fruit that was grilled by the sun.
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