2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
Rhone Blend
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Emmanuel Reynaud calls the 2010 vintage here "atypique" because of its brawny, structured character.Rayas normally ages on its balance, Reynaud believes, but in 2010, as in 2005, "the wine has additional structure to go with it."2011 is a much more "classical Rayas" vintage, he thinks, and while green-harvesting was mandatory, the age of most of the vines here always provides a self-regulation of yield, he said.It would be a mistake to look at 2011 in the same light as 2008 or even 2006 and 2004, he told me, because the alcohol levels are higher and there is more glycerine to the wines, "which gives them more of an impression of richness and weight than the '08, '06 or '04."
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Emmanuel Reynaud, who took control of the family estate in 1997, continues to make his personal mark at Rayas and his wines are consistently among the finest of the appellation. Indeed, I noted this year that in the case of every single 2009 and 2010 I tasted, the wines transcend their category. For example, Rayas's Cotes du Rhones are more fairly compared to Chateauneuf du Papes. The same goes for the wines he produces at his own estate, Chateau des Tours, by the way. How that applies to the flagship Chateauneuf du Pape is a good question that can probably best be answered by stating that Rayas is consistently hors classe for the southern Rhone.