2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

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. Emmanuel Reynaud describes 2008 as a vintage of real freshness, with strong floral and mineral character and good balance. "It's not a year that will demand cellaring but it will probably surprise people because there's good harmony to the wines." He lamented the meager production, though, telling me that it was off by almost 70%. As for 2009, Reynaud believes that "it will have a lot of broad appeal because there's both fat and good tannins. The tannins aren't hard, so long aging isn't essential, if people are impatient."

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Also recommended: 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Coralie et Floriane le Soleil de Nos Vignes (85).

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The usually soft-spoken Emmanuel Reynaud was noticeably enthusiastic about the set of 2007s he produced at Rayas, but noted that it was even more remarkable that 2009 might come close in quality. "Who would have imagined, years ago, that you could get three vintages like 2005, 2007 and 2009 in five years?" he asked rhetorically. The cellars at Rayas have clearly moved into the early 1900s as none of the lights dimmed or went out during my visit in November. Reynaud and I walked through the Rayas vineyards for an hour before our tasting and I was struck, once again, by the cool microclimate that many of these forest-enshrouded vineyards enjoy. An extended growing season is the key to complexity in grenache, noted Reynaud, but it's equally important that the vines should not be stressed by excess heat. "The elegant character and uniqueness of Rayas are due to grapes that aren't baked or acid-deficient, and that's all due to the vines' situation," he added.

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