2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
Rhone Blend
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Other wines tasted: 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape (83-86).
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"Two thousand five is all about spice," Emmanuel Reynaud told me as we began our tasting, "while 2006 is about elegance and freshness." There's an effortless quality to Reynaud's 2005s and 2006s that I found absolutely enthralling; here is flavor impact without weight or artifice, and some of the most captivating bouquets I encountered in the entire Rhone this year. I spent sporadic moments in the dark as an electrician tried to solve some wiring problems and Reynaud crept about, attempting to help him, leaving me alone among the cobwebs, mold, damp walls and dripping ceilings. It was a distinctly Lovecraftian scene-and downright creepy for anyone with an overactive imagination. When I bumped into the electrician in the entry hallway later as he stared at some ancient, wire-encased, foot-long ceramic fuse (or whatever it was), he shook his head and said "Merde! This place is old!"
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Following in the footsteps of a legend can't be easy, and Emmanuel Reynaud has been working under a microscope at Rayas for almost a decade now, since the death of his uncle Jacques in 1997. Any doubts I might have had about the current level of quality here were put to rest with the wines I saw this year. Fans of the floral, intensely perfumed style of this estate will have plenty to sink their palates into in both 2004 and 2005. The whites are excellent, too, especially the 2005 Rayas, a dead ringer for a grand cru Chablis. Reynaud emphasized to me that the finesse and perfume of the Chateau Rayas wines are largely due to the high quantity of silt and clay in the soil.
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