2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

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Also recommended: 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Coralie et Floriane le Soleil de Nos Vignes (85).

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The usually soft-spoken Emmanuel Reynaud was noticeably enthusiastic about the set of 2007s he produced at Rayas, but noted that it was even more remarkable that 2009 might come close in quality. "Who would have imagined, years ago, that you could get three vintages like 2005, 2007 and 2009 in five years?" he asked rhetorically. The cellars at Rayas have clearly moved into the early 1900s as none of the lights dimmed or went out during my visit in November. Reynaud and I walked through the Rayas vineyards for an hour before our tasting and I was struck, once again, by the cool microclimate that many of these forest-enshrouded vineyards enjoy. An extended growing season is the key to complexity in grenache, noted Reynaud, but it's equally important that the vines should not be stressed by excess heat. "The elegant character and uniqueness of Rayas are due to grapes that aren't baked or acid-deficient, and that's all due to the vines' situation," he added.

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Emmanuel Reynaud calls 2007 a real wine-grower's vintage, with very high quality and quantity. "It's also a great vintage for the public, by extension," he adds. "The wines are a marriage of dark fruits and spices, and they are extremely appealing even now. " His take on the 2006s is that that "they are also spicy, but without the force of the 2007s. " Reynaud is especially fond of 2007 for white wines, calling them "deep and rich but with excellent precision and finesse, which isn't easy. "

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