2010 Meursault Clos des Ambres
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Ente assured me that he wasn't the first to harvest in Meursault, but he nonetheless began on August 25 in his Goutte d'Or vines. "It was very hot during the nights at the end of August," Ente told me. "The sugars were up, the acids went down and the pHs stayed healthy. There was a lot of rain on the 26th but the fruit was not rotting and did not become dilute. Only the Aligote was chaptalized; the rest had potential alcohol in the 12% to 12.5% range. The 2011s have very good acidity; they're clean, precise and very open. And they seem to be developing rapidly." Ente added that his yields in 2011 were essentially the same as those of the previous vintage, below 40 hectoliters per hectare on average. He described his 2011s as "denser than the 2007s, more fleshy and opulent. In comparison, the 2007s are more taut and sharply chiseled." Ente normally does a long, soft pressing of whole clusters and a 12-hour settling of the must, describing this as "the Champagne method, to get finesse." The 2011 malos were finished here by the end of January and Ente sulfured his wines in April.
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2013 - 2013
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This is a stunning set of wines from Arnaud Ente. The 2010s stand out for their transparency, expressiveness and purity. Ente began bringing in his wines on September 15. Yields were down about 30% on average. Ente gave the 2010s 12 months in oak followed by 7-8 months in steel. The wines were all bottled in April 2012. There are a handful of more famous domaines in Meursault, but few that can equal the level of the stunning wines found at this small, family run estate that captures the essence of the Burgundian vigneron spirit.
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Arnaud Ente told me that he had planned to start harvesting on September 18 in 2010 but moved up the date by three days due to the rain on September 12 (and the 9th as well), noting that "the riper grapes turned chocolatey very quickly. But they were magnificent until then." He benefited from cool mornings during the harvest and reported that his wines finished with very healthy acidity levels in the 4.4 to 4.6 grams-per-liter range. (The 2009s actually finished in the same range, he added, but their pHs were not as low as those of 2010.) In spite of some problems with the skins in 2010, there really weren't any rotten grapes to eliminate, unlike in 2008, when he eliminated both gray and noble rot. Still, estate-wide yields were down 30% to 40% from the levels of 2009. "The 2010s are a bit more concentrated and deep than the 2008s, due in part to very low yields," he summarized. Ente noted that he began picking earlier than most of his neighbors back in 2000 and has no regrets. He does not believe in stirring the lees.
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Arnaud Ente began picking very early, on September 1, quite a big contrast to 2010, when he began picking on October 15! The 2009s were bottled in March 2010 with no fining or filtration. The 2009s spent approximately one year in oak, followed by six months in steel. New oak was around 25%. I tasted the 2010s from oak.
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