2009 Meursault Clos des Ambres
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Arnaud Ente told me that he had planned to start harvesting on September 18 in 2010 but moved up the date by three days due to the rain on September 12 (and the 9th as well), noting that "the riper grapes turned chocolatey very quickly. But they were magnificent until then." He benefited from cool mornings during the harvest and reported that his wines finished with very healthy acidity levels in the 4.4 to 4.6 grams-per-liter range. (The 2009s actually finished in the same range, he added, but their pHs were not as low as those of 2010.) In spite of some problems with the skins in 2010, there really weren't any rotten grapes to eliminate, unlike in 2008, when he eliminated both gray and noble rot. Still, estate-wide yields were down 30% to 40% from the levels of 2009. "The 2010s are a bit more concentrated and deep than the 2008s, due in part to very low yields," he summarized. Ente noted that he began picking earlier than most of his neighbors back in 2000 and has no regrets. He does not believe in stirring the lees.
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Arnaud Ente began picking very early, on September 1, quite a big contrast to 2010, when he began picking on October 15! The 2009s were bottled in March 2010 with no fining or filtration. The 2009s spent approximately one year in oak, followed by six months in steel. New oak was around 25%. I tasted the 2010s from oak.
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Once again, Ente picked very early to retain acidity, beginning on September 1 and finishing on September 10. The harvest was beautiful, he told me, and the fruit ripened rapidly in very warm conditions at the end. The wines, which he described as juicy and forward, show good balance and should offer mid-term aging potential. Not surprisingly, these wines have healthy pHs and acidity (3.15 to 3.2 and 4 to 4.5 grams per liter, respectively). Ente told me he loves the 2007s but that he's not drinking them yet. "The 2004s are great now; this was a much easier vintage," he said.
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