2008 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru
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2018 - 2023
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Boillot dropped the verjus [the much less ripe, higher-acid second-generation grapes] in August of '08, did what he described as a lot of work in the vines (his Chevrets and Caillerets were hailed on), and then picked quite late, beginning on October 8. That meant an unusually long 118 days between the flowering and harvest. Yields were barely 20 hectoliters per hectare, and Boillot told me there was next to no rot. The wines required a long, soft fermentation, and Boillot did not heat the tanks at the end, a practice that some of his colleagues employ these days. He describes the 2008s as "wines of pleasure, but with the structure to age." The 2007s here show uncanny sweetness and unctuousness: Boillot de-cuved with up to 30 grams per liter of residual sugar, and his allowing the sugar fermentations to finish in barrel only accentuated their ripeness and concentration. Incidentally, Boillot expressed the opinion that 2009 is "clearly a great chardonnay vintage for those who picked early" and that, for pinot noir, it was essential to limit yields.
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