2007 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2019 - 2035
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical I organized of Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs. It’s a wine I’ve loved and followed for many years. The Domaine is, of course, one of the most illustrious in Burgundy, thanks in part to the efforts of the current Marquis’ grandfather, Sem d’Angerville, who stood up to the négociants in the 1920s in response to their corrupt blending practices and who subsequently became one of the first to estate bottle his wines. On Sem’s death in 1952, he was succeeded by his son Jacques, who further burnished the reputation of the estate. Guillaume, the current Marquis d’Angerville, enjoyed a successful career as an investment banker in London, New York and Paris, taking over the estate when his father died unexpectedly in the summer of 2003. It was a real baptism by fire, as 2003 was the hottest vintage on record.
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The hail that struck part of Volnay at the end of July cut the crop level in Champans by about 30%, said Guillaume d'Angerville, who made seven hectoliters per hectare less on average in 2008 than in the previous harvest. As hail touched a couple of his other parcels as well, he did a shorter cold maceration in 2008. But grape sugars were in the healthy 13+% range and very little chaptalization was required.
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"The 2007s are not arrogant wines," said Guillaume d'Angerville. "They're already approachable due to their early charm, but there's no reason why they won't last." The harvest here began on September 5, which was actually on the late side for Volnay in 2007. Potential alcohol levels were around 13% for the premier crus, and very little chaptalization was done. D'Angerville described the 2007s as more voluptuous than the 2006s. "But they're in similar styles: very pinot. And the vintage character is not overwhelming, as it is in 2005."
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