2000 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2019 - 2026
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical I organized of Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs. It’s a wine I’ve loved and followed for many years. The Domaine is, of course, one of the most illustrious in Burgundy, thanks in part to the efforts of the current Marquis’ grandfather, Sem d’Angerville, who stood up to the négociants in the 1920s in response to their corrupt blending practices and who subsequently became one of the first to estate bottle his wines. On Sem’s death in 1952, he was succeeded by his son Jacques, who further burnished the reputation of the estate. Guillaume, the current Marquis d’Angerville, enjoyed a successful career as an investment banker in London, New York and Paris, taking over the estate when his father died unexpectedly in the summer of 2003. It was a real baptism by fire, as 2003 was the hottest vintage on record.
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Jacques d'Angerville reported that he lost 60% of his crop across his Volnay appellations in 2001: for example, he has just 11 barrels of Volnay Taillepieds in 2001, compared to 24 in 2002. The hail in 2001 not only reduced the crop but also damaged the wood of the vines, which affected the ripening of the grapes and even had a lingering effect on crop levels the following year. D'Angerville did very little pigeage for fear of getting a taste of hail. He describes his 2000s as "supple and nicely balanced but not without spine."
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"Not as structured as the 1999s but agreeable wines, to drink in five or six years," says Jacques d'Angerville of his 2000s. Grape sugars were in the 12.6 to 12.7% range, as in '99, but the acidity level was lower. Yields were actually a bit lower in 2000 (42, vs 45 in '99), but the '99s here are richer and deeper.
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