2004 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2019 - 2024
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"The 2005s are more powerful than the 2002s, with another dimension of expression," said Guillaume d'Angerville. "And the 2005s are more elegant and harmonious than the 1999s." The estate-wide yield averaged a reasonable 35 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines range from 13% to 13.8% alcohol with no chaptalization. Incidentally, d'Angerville and his brother-in-law Renaud de Villette bottled the 2004s on the late side due to the very late malolactic fermentations. "Barrel time after the end of the malo was critical," said d'Angerville, noting that the wines were bottled three months later than they might otherwise have been.
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Renaud de Villette was hardly the only winemaker in Volnay who had not figured out how the conditions of 2004, and the high crop levels of the year, could produce fruit with potential alcohol of 13. 5% and up-higher than in 2003. In fact, noted Villette, the Volnay Fremiet was more affected by hail than the estate's other premier crus, but even here the grapes ripened despite the damage to the foliage. Even after doing a green harvest, the estate produced 39 hectoliters per hectare (compared to 22 in '03), high by the standards of this domain, due to large grapes and large bunches. Early on, Villette said, the wines' acids and tannins were in opposition. But with the late malos, most of which ended in August and September, they are now coming into harmony.
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