2010 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2023 - 2050
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2019 - 2042
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical I organized of Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs. It’s a wine I’ve loved and followed for many years. The Domaine is, of course, one of the most illustrious in Burgundy, thanks in part to the efforts of the current Marquis’ grandfather, Sem d’Angerville, who stood up to the négociants in the 1920s in response to their corrupt blending practices and who subsequently became one of the first to estate bottle his wines. On Sem’s death in 1952, he was succeeded by his son Jacques, who further burnished the reputation of the estate. Guillaume, the current Marquis d’Angerville, enjoyed a successful career as an investment banker in London, New York and Paris, taking over the estate when his father died unexpectedly in the summer of 2003. It was a real baptism by fire, as 2003 was the hottest vintage on record.
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2020 - 2040
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The 2010s from Marquis d'Angerville are stellar. They are the product of a year that saw yields lowered by 40-50% on average. It was quite a shock to see the domain's cellars with so few barrels in them. As always, the wines were made with fully de-stemmed fruit. I will report on the 2009s in my April article.
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I tasted in a different cellar here than I usually do, as Guillaume d'Angerville decided not to move the 2010s that had not yet finished their malolactic fermentations to make room for the 2011s. By the time I arrived, most of the malos had finished but just a couple wines had been racked. D'Angerville emphasized that he never punches down the cap during the vinification. "I don't like to be stubborn, but if there's one thing I'll never change, this is it," he said. "It's ingrained from my father and my grandfather." The top 2010s here look to be splendid.
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