1998 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2019 - 2025
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical I organized of Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs. It’s a wine I’ve loved and followed for many years. The Domaine is, of course, one of the most illustrious in Burgundy, thanks in part to the efforts of the current Marquis’ grandfather, Sem d’Angerville, who stood up to the négociants in the 1920s in response to their corrupt blending practices and who subsequently became one of the first to estate bottle his wines. On Sem’s death in 1952, he was succeeded by his son Jacques, who further burnished the reputation of the estate. Guillaume, the current Marquis d’Angerville, enjoyed a successful career as an investment banker in London, New York and Paris, taking over the estate when his father died unexpectedly in the summer of 2003. It was a real baptism by fire, as 2003 was the hottest vintage on record.
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Jacques d'Angerville has a very strong set of '99s in the works, despite having produced close to 50 hectoliters per hectare. "There were a lot of grapes, but the grapes were small," explained d'Angerville son-in-law Renaud de Vilette. "Both acidity and sugar levels were higher than those of '98. The '98s have a more grilled taste, due in part to sunburn in early August, and this characteristic reinforces the natural dryness of these wines." The domain has given its fruit a pre-fermentation cold soak since 1995. Part of the Volnay Champans and the Clos des Ducs are vinified in cuves in which automatic pigeage is done, but d'Angerville uses only a twice-daily remontage for his other wines, never punching down the cap manually. Vilette noted that some acidification was needed during the vinification of the low-acid 2000 harvest, but not in '99 or '98.
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The April 15 frost in '98 left the vines in a fragile state, reported Jacques d'Angerville. Then, sunburn during the heat of early August further reduced crop loads, leaving barely half a harvest, just 18 hectoliters per hectare. There was no rot, said d'Angerville, but the grapes were dry and had very little juice. "The result is a set of ample, concentrated, solid wines with excellent length-but a little austere. It may be necessary to wait ten years to enjoy them."
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