2009 Monthélie Les Duresses
France
Monthélie
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2013 - 2019
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I arrived at Lafon just as the last of The 2009s were being bottled. Dominique Lafon describes The 2009 harvest as a generous one, which I am sure he was quite happy about given 2008. The approach at Lafon can be best described as gentle. The wines are mostly made from 100% destemmed fruit (The 2009 Monthélie is an exception, with 25% whole clusters). The fruit undergoes a gentle cold soak of 4-5 days followed by a maceration of three weeks on the skins. After pressing the wines are left in steel for two weeks to encourage natural decantation, and are then racked into barrel with the fine lees. New oak is about 25% for the Monthélie, 33% for the Volnay and Clos des Chênes, and slightly more for the Champans and Santenots. Vintage 2008 was not an easy one for Dominique Lafon. In Volnay, the cold spring and ensuing irregular flowering lowered yields by a third, until hail in July took care of another third. Lafon said these were the lowest yields he had ever seen in his career. The remaining fruit, though, was quite pretty, as these sublime 2008s amply demonstrate. Lafon may be best known for his whites, but readers should pay just as much attention to these superb reds. Readers can find notes on Lafon's 2009s, which I tasted from barrel, on this site.
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Dominique Lafon started his harvest by picking chardonnay on September 7, figuring the pinot noir could wait. But with sugars mounting quickly under very warm conditions (the Volnay leaped from 11.5% potential alcohol to 13.5% in a week), he turned to pinot on September 11, hiring more pickers and harvesting in a rush. The result is a smooth, showy, lush group of '09s that will almost certainly be best for early to mid-term drinking. The wines show a liqueur-like ripeness and richness, yet manage to display more terroir character than some of the more extreme wines I tasted on the Cote de Nuits. The Monthelie and the Volnay had just been assembled in tank at the time of my early November visit. (Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)
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