2012 Monthélie Les Duresses
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2019 - 2024
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Dominique Lafon made tiny quantities of very ripe wine in 2012, noting that "we had to push the ripeness farther in this hail year in order to get riper, less harsh tannins." He bottled the '12s very late, in July of 2014, and the Volnay Clos des Chênes was done entirely in magnums.
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"I don't like this vintage because we don't have enough of it," said Dominique Lafon about the 2012 reds.In fact, production was tiny, with the Volnay Champans producing the healthiest yield at just 18 hectoliters per hectare and also coming in with potential alcohol of 13%.Lafon did just three or four punchdowns per cuvee.He described the 2012s as "very concentrated wines with good fruit and nice balance--between 2011 and 2010 in acidity."Like a number of his colleagues, he pointed out that the wines have gotten rounder and smoother with elevage.Still, he added, the 2011s are more refined. (Classic Wine Imports, www.classicwineimports.com; also a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, www.skurnikwines.com)
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2016 - 2026
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Dominique Lafon's 2012s are rich and dark, almost atypically so, the result of punishingly low yields. Malos stretched into August, when the 2012s were sulfured, but not racked. According to Lafon there are some similarities between 2012 and 2005, although Lafon adds the 2012 have a bit less acidity. As a result of the low yields, Lafon did not bottle his straight Volnay from young vines in Santenots. The little fruit that was harvested went into the Santenots proper. I should add that a recent bottle of the 2009 Santenots was stunning.
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