2003 Monthélie Les Duresses
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Dominique Lafon did very little pigeage for his Monthelie in 2004, because the tannins of this wine tend to turn hard quickly, and a bit less punching down than usual for his Volnays-basically one pigeage in the morning and one remontage in the afternoon. Some of the 2004 barrels were still finishing their malos in mid-November. Lafon did not acidify his 2003s, choosing instead to work with much less oxidative influence (in comparison, the 2004s got a bit more aeration than usual during the racking). The earlier set of wines was bottled with an edge of reduction (as well as a good bit of CO2), so impatient drinkers should be sure to decant their bottles prior to serving them.
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Dominique Lafon carried out a three-week cuvaison, which he described as "at least as long as ever at the estate," but for the first time he did not do a single punchdown of the cap."With no pigeage and a high percentage of small berries, the fermentations took forever," he told me.
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