2008 Monthélie Les Duresses
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2013 - 2020
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I arrived at Lafon just as the last of The 2009s were being bottled. Dominique Lafon describes The 2009 harvest as a generous one, which I am sure he was quite happy about given 2008. The approach at Lafon can be best described as gentle. The wines are mostly made from 100% destemmed fruit (The 2009 Monthélie is an exception, with 25% whole clusters). The fruit undergoes a gentle cold soak of 4-5 days followed by a maceration of three weeks on the skins. After pressing the wines are left in steel for two weeks to encourage natural decantation, and are then racked into barrel with the fine lees. New oak is about 25% for the Monthélie, 33% for the Volnay and Clos des Chênes, and slightly more for the Champans and Santenots. Vintage 2008 was not an easy one for Dominique Lafon. In Volnay, the cold spring and ensuing irregular flowering lowered yields by a third, until hail in July took care of another third. Lafon said these were the lowest yields he had ever seen in his career. The remaining fruit, though, was quite pretty, as these sublime 2008s amply demonstrate. Lafon may be best known for his whites, but readers should pay just as much attention to these superb reds. Readers can find notes on Lafon's 2009s, which I tasted from barrel, on this site.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Two thousand eight brought a miserable crop in Volnay, and the smallest production in his experience, reported Dominique Lafon, with the hailstorm in late July a major factor. So was dehydration of the fruit in September. The Volnay fruit ripened eventually, but Lafon did not finish picking his reds until early October, getting 13+% grape sugars but losing what he described as one-third of the volume due to loss of water in the grapes. Lafon cut way back on pigeage for fear of getting green tannins because of the hail. (Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; a Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: Mont helie Les Duresses (86).
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