2013 Monthélie Les Duresses
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2017 - 2024
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Dominique Lafon told me that his Volnay vineyards were much less affected by hail in 2013 than in 2014; in fact, he said, 2012 was the most hailed-on vintage of the trio. Lafon uses one-third new oak for his red premier crus and has bottled all of the Domaine Lafon wines, whites as well as reds, with the top-of-the-line DIAM 30 corks since 2013 (he uses DIAM 10s for his Mâconnais wines). While he does not believe that his 2014 reds will close down, he’s not as sure about these 2013s, which are very concentrated wines made from tiny crop levels.
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2018 - 2025
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Dominique Lafon picked his Pinot Noir between October 2 and 5 in 2013, which was probably the sweet spot for the harvest, at least for those growers who had reasonably ripe fruit by then. Lafon told me he eliminated the dried grapes on the sorting table. As in 2012, yields in '13 were tiny and the wines are quite concentrated. Grape sugars ranged from 12% to 12.5% and Lafon chaptalized about 0.5%. I found plenty of ripeness in these '13s, but the wines also have healthy pHs in the 3.35 range. The malos were very late, with some barrels only finishing after the 2014 harvest.
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